If there’s one watch that perfectly defines Patek Philippe, it has to be the chronograph perpetual calendar – a combination that was first introduced by the brand with the reference 1518 and which is now represented by the 5270. This watch debuted in rather neutral, slightly conservative editions but has been updated recently with far bolder styles, such as the green lacquered edition of 2022. In addition, Patek also proposes a gem-set version in platinum, known as the 5271P. Previously available with diamonds and a black dial, this ultra-luxury reference makes a remarkable comeback this year with two new coloured editions, the new Patek Philippe Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5271P with rubies or blue sapphires, and matching lacquered dials.
Regarding the proportions and movement, there’s not much news. The Patek Philippe Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5271P is nothing more than a stone-packed version of the already desirable and high-end 5270. Yet, there are a few things to be said about these new versions of the 5271P, as they follow the evolutions found on the green 5270P presented earlier this year, representing the fourth generation of this model – the previous versions are covered in this in-depth article.
The previous black-and-diamond 5271P was part of the third generation, meaning no “chin” and a tachymeter bezel on the periphery of the dial. Now, in the same vein as the green model, the new Patek Philippe Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5271P feature a much cleaner dial, with a complete railroad track on the periphery (a continuous track, without the cut at 6 o’clock) and no tachymeter scale. This results in a cleaner, more balanced and modern look. Similarly, the dials are lacquered with bold colours and a gradient effect. Finally, the printings and tracks are pure white and more contrasting than previous editions.
Now, the new versions of the Patek Philippe Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5271P are set with coloured stones – blue sapphires and rubies – instead of classic diamonds. No surprise here, as Patek has all the necessary skills to make gem-set watches since it recently took a stake in Salanitro SA, the most prominent player in jewellery and gem-setting activities for Swiss Haute Horlogerie. The 41mm platinum case, which is identical to the 5270 models in size and shape, has been adorned with 58 baguette-cut rubies or blue sapphires on both the bezel and the lugs, for a total of 4.11 carats. The result, which is graphic and modern, is also far from being discreet. But this is a style that some clients were asking for.
To add to the audacity of these new editions – 5271/11P with blue sapphires and 5271/12P with rubies – the brand has given them some equally daring dials with matching colours and a glossy lacquer with a black gradient effect. No stones are to be found on the dials, which rely on classic white gold applied markers and hands. The watches are complemented with a glossy black alligator strap with colour-matched stitching and a fold-over clasp that is also set with stones (22 baguette-cut rubies or sapphires, in this instance). Inside the case, no surprises, as we find the advanced calibre CH 29-535 PS Q. This in-house, hand-wound chronograph relies on an appealing architecture with a column wheel and a horizontal clutch, on top of which is a perpetual calendar module. There are multiple innovations and technical solutions implemented at play here, which we covered in detail in this article. The movement indicates the time together with a chronograph with central seconds and 30-minute counter, and a perpetual calendar with date-by-hand, apertures for the day and month, a leap year indicator, a day-night indicator and moon phases… and all of that finds its place on the dial is a balanced and legible way.