Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture
Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture has been on a pretty strong roll the last few years, introducing both new movements and new watches, most of which have been extremely strong. From the basic Slim d’Hermès to the perpetual calendar Slim to the more romantic complications, there’s been a lot to enjoy from the famed Parisian luxury house. And with this latest introduction, Hermès shows no signs of slowing down.
The pair of Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture watches we have here are two variations of the Arceau Très Grand Modèle. The name really says it all here. We have the classic Arceau, which was first designed for Hermès by Henri d’Origny back in 1991, only in a “very large” (or très grand in French) size. The defining features of the Arceau are the swooping numerals, which curve as they go around the dial, adding some dynamism to the mix, and those semi-wire lugs that curve out from the round, slim-bezeled case. Both are intact here, and the new models look every bit the part of classic Arceau models, just with different colors and finishes. The first new Arceau Très Grand Modèle has a 40mm steel case paired with an elegant hazelnut brown dial. The dial features a stamped chevron pattern in the center and a sunburst finish on the chapter ring, which in turn has applied gold Arabic numerals in the classic Arceau style. The contrasting patterns make the dial look two-tone even though the color is even throughout. There’s a matching date window down at six o’clock, otherwise we have a simple two-hand layout here. The strap is a matching etoupe matte alligator Hermès strap that works perfectly with the rest of the watch.
Inside is the caliber H1837, which Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture is the standard in-house automatic movement from Hermès. It has a full rotor (unlike the micro-rotor movement that powers the Slim d’Hermès watches) and is comprised of 193 total components. The power reserve is a reasonable 50 hours and the decoration is a mix of more traditional finishes and the signature Hermès H motif.
The other model introduced here starts with the same steel case, but utilizes a blue lacquered dial with an even sunburst finish and silvered Arabic numerals around the outer edge. Again, there’s a matching “Abyss blue” matte alligator strap and a date window that matches with the dial too.
The biggest difference with this model though is inside – there’s a Swiss quartz movement powering this Hermès Arceau TGM Manufacture watch instead of the mechanical H1837. While I understand Hermès wanting to hit multiple price points, it would have been nice to see both colors available with both movements – this blue dial with a mechanical movement would be quite the show stopper.